My friend, Sarah, a passionate backyard chicken keeper in rural Ohio, called me in a panic a few months back. Her beloved hen, Henrietta, had been looking a little peaked – ruffled feathers, listless, and her comb was noticeably paler than usual. Sarah, being the observant chicken mom she is, quickly noticed something unsettling in Henrietta’s droppings: tiny, rice-like segments. Her heart sank. Worms. Henrietta had worms, and likely, so did the rest of her small flock. Sarah, committed to raising her birds as naturally as possible, felt a surge of dread. Chemical dewormers felt like a last resort, but she also couldn’t bear to see her girls suffer. “Is there any way,” she asked me, her voice laced with desperation, “to naturally deworm chickens without resorting to harsh medications?”

Yes, you absolutely can incorporate natural methods to manage and prevent worm infestations in chickens, but it’s crucial to understand that these approaches are primarily preventative and supportive, often falling short of eliminating heavy, established parasitic burdens on their own. While certain natural ingredients and management practices can significantly boost your flock’s resilience and create an environment less hospitable to parasites, severe infestations often require targeted veterinary intervention. The key lies in a holistic, proactive strategy that focuses on prevention, gut health, and vigilant observation.

Understanding the Enemy: Common Chicken Worms

Before diving into natural solutions, it’s vital to know what you’re up against. Chickens can host various internal parasites, and identifying the type can sometimes influence your approach. A quick fecal test by a veterinarian is always the most accurate way to confirm an infestation and identify the specific culprits, which can guide your treatment strategy, natural or otherwise.

  • Roundworms (Ascarids): These are probably the most common. They look like spaghetti, can grow up to several inches long, and live in the small intestine, absorbing nutrients and potentially causing blockages in heavy infestations. Symptoms include poor growth, weight loss, diarrhea, pale combs, and overall poor condition. You might even see them in droppings or eggs.
  • Capillary Worms (Hairworms): These tiny, thread-like worms are much harder to spot with the naked eye and can cause severe damage to the lining of the digestive tract. They often lead to emaciation, weakness, and decreased egg production.
  • Cecal Worms (Heterakis Gallinarum): Small, white worms found in the ceca (two blind-ended pouches at the end of the small intestine). While they usually cause little direct harm, they are significant because they can carry the protozoan that causes Blackhead disease, a serious condition in turkeys and sometimes chickens.
  • Tapeworms: Less common in backyard flocks, tapeworms attach to the intestinal wall. They consist of segments (proglottids) that can be passed in droppings, looking like flattened rice grains. Heavy infestations can cause weight loss and poor condition.

The insidious nature of worms is that chickens can harbor them without showing obvious symptoms until the infestation is quite advanced. This makes a proactive, preventative approach even more critical, especially if you’re leaning towards natural methods.

Why Consider Natural Deworming?

The appeal of natural deworming is strong for many homesteaders and backyard chicken keepers, myself included. It aligns with a desire for sustainable practices, minimizing chemical exposure, and fostering a healthier ecosystem within the flock and on the property. Here are some compelling reasons:

  • Organic Principles: For those raising chickens for organic meat or eggs, avoiding synthetic chemicals is a core value. Natural methods offer a way to manage health while adhering to these principles.
  • Avoiding Drug Residues: Chemical dewormers often come with withdrawal periods, meaning you can’t consume eggs or meat from treated birds for a certain amount of time. Natural methods typically don’t have these concerns, allowing for continuous enjoyment of your flock’s produce.
  • Preventing Drug Resistance: Overreliance on chemical dewormers can lead to parasites developing resistance, making future treatments less effective. A diverse approach, incorporating natural methods, can help mitigate this risk.
  • Holistic Health Approach: Many natural remedies and preventative practices aim to improve overall chicken health, boosting their immune system and making them less susceptible to parasites in the first place, rather than just targeting the worms themselves.
  • Cost-Effectiveness: Some natural methods utilize readily available garden plants or kitchen scraps, potentially reducing veterinary and medication costs over time.

The Pillars of Natural Worm Control: Prevention is Key!

When it comes to naturally managing parasites, the old adage “an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure” couldn’t be more accurate. A robust preventative strategy is the cornerstone of any successful natural deworming program. Without it, you’re constantly fighting an uphill battle.

Flock Management Practices to Deter Worms

The environment your chickens live in plays a massive role in parasite transmission. By making some simple, consistent changes, you can drastically reduce the chances of a worm burden taking hold.

  1. Rotational Grazing or Run Management: Parasite eggs are shed in droppings and can survive in the soil for extended periods, sometimes for years. If chickens consistently graze the same patch of ground, they inevitably re-ingest eggs.

    • Strategy: Divide your run into sections and rotate your flock through them, allowing empty sections to rest for at least 3-6 months. Tilling the soil and planting cover crops can also help disrupt the parasite life cycle. For smaller setups, regularly raking and removing droppings, or even covering parts of the run, can help.
  2. Impeccable Sanitation: A clean coop is a healthy coop. This seems obvious, but consistent cleaning is non-negotiable.

    • Strategy: Daily spot-clean droppings from roosts and nesting boxes. Deep clean the entire coop every 1-3 months, removing all bedding, scrubbing surfaces with a natural disinfectant (like a strong vinegar solution), and allowing it to dry thoroughly. Replace bedding frequently, especially if it gets damp.
  3. Quarantine New Birds: This is an absolute must, regardless of whether you’re using natural or chemical methods. New birds can introduce parasites, diseases, and other issues to your established flock.

    • Strategy: Isolate new birds for at least 30 days in a separate coop or enclosure. Observe them closely for any signs of illness, including worms in droppings. A fecal test during this period is highly recommended.
  4. Control Wild Birds and Rodents: Wild birds, mice, and rats can carry and transmit parasites and other pathogens to your flock’s feed and water.

    • Strategy: Use rodent-proof feeders and secure feed storage containers. Netting over runs can deter wild birds. Clean up spilled feed promptly.
  5. Manage Moisture: Damp, humid environments are ideal breeding grounds for many parasites and their intermediate hosts (like slugs and snails for some tapeworms).

    • Strategy: Ensure good drainage in your coop and run. Fix leaky waterers. Provide plenty of ventilation in the coop to prevent condensation and keep bedding dry.
  6. Appropriate Flock Density: Overcrowding leads to stress, increased contact with droppings, and faster buildup of parasites.

    • Strategy: Provide ample space per bird in the coop (at least 3-4 sq ft per bird) and in the run (at least 10 sq ft per bird, more if possible).

Dietary Support for a Stronger, More Resistant Flock

A chicken’s diet plays a crucial role in its overall health and ability to resist parasitic infections. A well-nourished bird with a robust immune system is far less likely to succumb to a heavy worm burden.

  • High-Quality Feed: This is foundational. Ensure your chickens are getting a complete, balanced feed appropriate for their age and laying status. Deficiencies can weaken their immune system.
  • Probiotics and Fermented Feeds: A healthy gut microbiome is essential for immunity. Probiotics introduce beneficial bacteria, while fermented feeds enhance nutrient absorption and gut health.

    • Strategy: You can buy commercial poultry probiotics or make your own fermented feed by soaking their regular pellets in water for a few days until bubbling.
  • Apple Cider Vinegar (ACV): Often touted for its myriad benefits, ACV is believed to create a slightly more acidic gut environment, which some believe is less hospitable to worms and can aid in digestion and nutrient absorption.

    • Strategy: Add raw, unfiltered ACV (with the “mother”) to your chickens’ drinking water at a ratio of 1-2 tablespoons per gallon, a few times a week. Avoid using metal waterers as ACV can corrode them over time.
  • Garlic: Long used in traditional medicine as an antiparasitic, garlic contains allicin, which is thought to have antimicrobial and anthelmintic properties. It may also boost the immune system.

    • Strategy: Crush a few cloves of fresh garlic and add them to their feed or steep them in their drinking water. Some keepers offer whole cloves for the birds to peck at.
  • Pumpkin Seeds / Other Cucurbit Seeds: These seeds (from pumpkins, squash, cucumbers) contain cucurbitacin, an amino acid that is believed to paralyze and expel intestinal worms.

    • Strategy: Offer raw, crushed pumpkin seeds as a treat. The chickens enjoy them, and they are packed with nutrients. This is more of a supportive measure rather than a strong dewormer.
  • Herbs: Various herbs are traditionally believed to have antiparasitic properties. These include wormwood, tansy, sage, thyme, and oregano.

    • Strategy: Some keepers sprinkle dried herbs in their feed or offer fresh clippings for the chickens to forage. Caution: Some herbs can be toxic in large quantities. Always research specific herbs thoroughly and use them sparingly and with great care. Wormwood, for example, can be toxic.
  • Diatomaceous Earth (Food Grade): This powdery substance, made from fossilized diatoms, is a popular natural remedy. Its sharp, microscopic edges are believed to abrade the exoskeletons of parasites, leading to dehydration.

    • Strategy: Mix food-grade DE into their feed (no more than 2% of total feed by weight) or add it to dust baths. Caution: While widely used, the scientific evidence for its effectiveness as an internal dewormer in chickens is limited and often debated. Always use food-grade DE and avoid inhaling the dust, as it can be an irritant to respiratory systems for both you and your birds.

Detailed Natural Deworming Methods & Ingredients

Let’s dive deeper into some of the most commonly discussed natural remedies, scrutinizing their potential benefits and practical application. Remember, consistency is key when employing any natural health strategy.

Diatomaceous Earth (Food Grade)

Diatomaceous Earth, or DE, is a naturally occurring, soft, siliceous sedimentary rock that crumbles into a fine white powder. When viewed under a microscope, DE particles look like tiny, sharp shards of glass. This characteristic is what gives it its supposed efficacy against insects and parasites.

  • Mechanism of Action: For external parasites like mites and lice, DE’s microscopic sharpness scratches the waxy outer layer of insects, causing them to dehydrate and die. The theory for internal parasites is similar: the abrasive particles are thought to damage the worms’ protective outer coating, leading to dehydration and eventual demise.
  • Application:

    1. In Feed: Mix food-grade DE into your chickens’ daily feed. A common recommendation is to incorporate it at no more than 2% of the total feed by weight. For example, if you feed 10 lbs of feed, add no more than 0.2 lbs (about 3.2 ounces or roughly 2/3 cup) of DE. Gradually introduce it to avoid startling your birds.
    2. In Dust Baths: Providing a dust bath area mixed with DE can help chickens manage external parasites, and it’s a natural behavior for them. Mix DE with sand or fine dirt in a shallow container.
  • Pros & Cons:

    • Pros: Non-toxic to chickens (when food-grade), helps with external parasites, potentially acts as an anti-caking agent in feed.
    • Cons: Limited scientific evidence for its efficacy as a primary internal dewormer. Many experts believe it’s not potent enough to clear a significant worm burden. Inhaling the fine dust can be irritating to respiratory systems for both humans and chickens, so use a mask when handling.
  • My Take: While I’ve used DE in dust baths and occasionally in feed for general gut health support, I wouldn’t rely on it as a sole deworming agent, especially for an established infestation. Think of it more as a supportive element in your overall preventative strategy.

Garlic

Garlic has been revered for centuries for its medicinal properties, and it’s a common staple in many natural chicken keeping routines.

  • Active Compounds: Garlic contains allicin, a sulfur compound, which is responsible for much of its characteristic odor and many of its reported health benefits, including antimicrobial, antiviral, and antiparasitic effects.
  • How to Administer:

    1. Crushed in Feed: Mince or crush fresh garlic cloves and mix them into a small amount of their regular feed. A general guideline is 1-2 cloves per gallon of feed, a few times a week.
    2. Steeped in Water: Crush several cloves, let them sit for 10-15 minutes (to activate allicin), then steep them in their drinking water for a few hours. Remove the garlic pulp before offering the water.
    3. Whole Cloves: Some chickens will naturally peck at whole, peeled garlic cloves offered as a treat.
  • Reported Benefits: Besides potential deworming properties, garlic is often credited with boosting immunity, acting as a natural antibiotic, and even deterring external pests due to its strong odor.
  • Limitations: Like DE, while anecdotal evidence is strong, rigorous scientific studies specifically proving garlic’s efficacy as a potent dewormer in chickens are somewhat limited. It’s more likely to be effective as a mild deterrent and immune booster rather than a treatment for heavy infestations.

Pumpkin Seeds & Other Cucurbit Seeds

These humble seeds are a favorite natural remedy in many circles.

  • Active Compound: The seeds of plants in the cucurbit family (pumpkins, squash, zucchini, cucumbers) contain cucurbitacin, an amino acid believed to have anthelmintic (anti-worm) properties. It’s thought to paralyze tapeworms and roundworms, allowing the chicken’s digestive system to expel them.
  • How to Prepare:

    1. Raw & Crushed: The most effective way is to offer raw, unroasted, unsalted seeds. Crush them slightly to make it easier for chickens to consume and to release the cucurbitacin. You can offer them whole or mixed into their feed.
    2. Quantity: A handful of crushed seeds per bird, offered a few times a week, is a common recommendation.
  • Evidence vs. Anecdotal: While traditional medicine and some smaller studies suggest cucurbitacin’s effectiveness against parasites in other animals, its direct, strong impact as a dewormer in chickens in a controlled setting needs more research. However, they are a nutrient-dense, healthy treat regardless.

Apple Cider Vinegar (ACV)

ACV is another staple in the natural chicken keeper’s toolkit, valued more for overall gut health than direct worm expulsion.

  • Mechanism: Raw, unfiltered ACV (with the “mother”) is acidic. When added to drinking water, it can slightly lower the pH of the chicken’s digestive tract. A more acidic gut environment is generally less favorable for the proliferation of harmful bacteria and, some believe, parasites. It also contains beneficial enzymes and probiotics.
  • Application:

    1. In Waterer: Add 1-2 tablespoons of raw, unfiltered ACV per gallon of drinking water. Offer this a few times a week or as a daily supplement.
    2. Important Note: Avoid using metal waterers as ACV can corrode them. Opt for plastic, glass, or ceramic.
  • Benefits: Improved digestion, better nutrient absorption, potential immune system boost, and a less hospitable environment for some pathogens.
  • Limitations: ACV is not a dewormer in the traditional sense. It won’t kill or expel existing worms directly. Its role is primarily supportive, making the chickens healthier and potentially more resistant to new infestations.

Herbal Remedies

The world of herbal remedies for chickens is vast, but it comes with a significant caveat: research and caution are paramount.

  • Overview of Common “Vermifuge” Herbs:

    • Wormwood: Traditionally used as an antiparasitic in various cultures. Contains thujone, which is toxic in high doses.
    • Tansy: Another herb with historical use as a vermifuge, also contains thujone and is considered toxic in large amounts.
    • Sage, Thyme, Oregano: These culinary herbs are often included for their general antimicrobial properties and potential to boost immunity, rather than direct deworming.
  • Strong Warnings: Many potent herbs, especially those traditionally used to expel parasites, contain compounds that can be toxic to chickens if administered incorrectly or in excessive amounts. Dosage for chickens is rarely scientifically established, leading to potential dangers.
  • Preparation & Use (with extreme caution):

    1. Teas: Brew a weak tea from dried herbs and add a small amount to drinking water.
    2. Dried in Feed: Sprinkle a very small amount of dried, powdered herb into their feed.
    3. Fresh Forage: Allowing chickens access to a diverse pasture where they can naturally peck at various plants might offer some benefits, as they often instinctively know what to eat in moderation.
  • My Opinion: Unless you are an experienced herbalist with deep knowledge of poultry physiology and toxicology, I would advise extreme caution with potent herbal dewormers. The risks often outweigh the unproven benefits, especially when compared to safer, more effective preventative measures. Stick to common culinary herbs for general health support if you choose this route, and always consult reliable sources.

Fermented Feeds & Probiotics

These methods focus on building a strong, healthy gut, which is a chicken’s first line of defense against many health issues, including parasites.

  • Gut Health, Microbiome: A diverse and robust population of beneficial bacteria in the gut can outcompete harmful bacteria and, indirectly, make the environment less welcoming for internal parasites. A healthy gut also means a stronger immune system overall.
  • Indirect Effect: While not direct dewormers, they create a stronger host more capable of resisting new parasitic infections and recovering faster.
  • How to Implement:

    1. Fermented Feed: Soak your regular chicken feed (pellets or crumbles) in non-chlorinated water for 2-3 days in a non-metal container until it develops a slightly sour smell and bubbles. Feed it slightly wet. Always make fresh batches to avoid mold.
    2. Commercial Probiotics: You can purchase poultry-specific probiotic supplements to add to water or feed, especially during times of stress or after any treatment.

A Holistic Approach to Flock Health & Parasite Management: A Checklist

True natural deworming isn’t about finding a magic bullet; it’s about integrating multiple strategies into a cohesive, holistic plan. Here’s a practical checklist to guide your efforts:

  1. Regular Observation:

    • Daily check on flock behavior, appetite, and droppings.
    • Look for ruffled feathers, lethargy, pale combs, weight loss, or changes in egg production.
    • Inspect droppings for visible worms or worm segments.
  2. Fecal Testing Schedule:

    • Perform routine fecal tests (e.g., every 6-12 months) even if birds appear healthy, especially for a new flock or after acquiring new birds.
    • Test immediately if you suspect a worm problem.
    • This is the most accurate way to identify worm type and burden, allowing for informed decisions.
  3. Biosecurity Measures:

    • Quarantine all new birds for at least 30 days.
    • Wash hands and change footwear after visiting other flocks.
    • Prevent contact with wild birds, rodents, and other potential carriers.
  4. Superior Nutrition:

    • Provide a high-quality, balanced commercial feed.
    • Supplement with beneficial treats like pumpkin seeds, garlic, and fresh greens.
    • Offer fermented feed or probiotics regularly.
  5. Environmental Management:

    • Implement a rotational grazing system for runs.
    • Maintain a clean coop with fresh, dry bedding.
    • Ensure proper drainage and ventilation to prevent dampness.
    • Remove droppings frequently from coop and run.
    • Manage compost piles away from chicken access.
  6. Stress Reduction:

    • Provide adequate space for all birds.
    • Ensure constant access to fresh water and feed.
    • Minimize sudden changes to their environment or routine.
    • A stressed chicken is more susceptible to illness and parasites.
  7. When to Call the Vet/Consider Chemical Dewormers:

    • If fecal tests show a moderate to heavy worm burden.
    • If chickens show severe symptoms of illness or decline despite natural efforts.
    • If natural methods fail to improve the situation within a reasonable timeframe.

The Limitations and Risks of Natural Deworming

While the allure of natural methods is strong, it’s crucial to approach them with a healthy dose of realism. The biggest limitation is that most natural remedies lack the potent, scientifically proven anthelmintic (anti-worm) power of pharmaceutical dewormers.

  • Lack of Scientific Evidence: Many claims about natural dewormers are based on anecdotal evidence, traditional use, or extrapolation from studies on other species. Rigorous, controlled studies specifically demonstrating their efficacy in eliminating established worm burdens in chickens are often scarce.
  • Inconsistent Dosages: Without scientific backing, precise and effective dosages for natural remedies are largely guesswork. Too little, and it’s ineffective; too much, and it could be toxic or harmful.
  • Potential for Toxicity: As discussed with herbs like wormwood and tansy, some substances can be harmful or even fatal if given in incorrect amounts. Relying on unverified information can put your flock at risk.
  • Risk of Uncontrolled Infestations: If you rely solely on natural methods for a heavy worm infestation, you risk allowing the parasites to proliferate, leading to severe health consequences for your birds, including malnutrition, intestinal damage, blockages, and even death. The longer an infestation goes untreated, the harder it is to resolve.
  • Not a “Cure-All”: Natural methods are best viewed as preventative measures or supportive therapies to build a stronger, more resilient flock. They are generally not powerful enough to “cure” a significant parasitic problem once it has taken hold.

When to Seek Professional Help (and Chemical Dewormers)

There comes a point when the well-being of your flock outweighs the desire for an exclusively natural approach. Recognizing these moments is a mark of responsible animal husbandry.

If your chickens are exhibiting severe symptoms of illness, such as extreme lethargy, emaciation, severe diarrhea, or if you’re consistently seeing many worms in their droppings, it’s time to consult a qualified poultry veterinarian. A vet can accurately diagnose the type and severity of the worm burden through a fecal test and recommend the most appropriate course of action. This often includes a pharmaceutical dewormer.

Chemical dewormers, when used correctly under veterinary guidance, are highly effective and can quickly alleviate a severe parasitic load, preventing further suffering and long-term damage to your birds. Common poultry dewormers include fenbendazole (found in products like Safe-Guard) and piperazine. It is absolutely crucial to follow the dosage instructions and, very importantly, observe the withdrawal periods for eggs and meat. This ensures that no drug residues are passed into human food. While not “natural,” these medications serve a vital purpose in ensuring flock health and welfare when natural methods are insufficient.

Remember, a responsible chicken keeper’s ultimate goal is the health and comfort of their birds. Sometimes, that means making the tough but necessary decision to use conventional medicine.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

How often should I deworm my chickens naturally?

There isn’t a fixed “schedule” for naturally deworming, as the approach is more about ongoing prevention and support rather than periodic treatment. Instead of a calendar-based deworming schedule, focus on consistent preventative measures throughout the year. This includes maintaining excellent coop hygiene, practicing rotational grazing, providing a high-quality diet, and supplementing with supportive natural ingredients like garlic, pumpkin seeds, and ACV regularly.

The goal is to create an environment and host (chicken) that are naturally resistant to parasites. However, if you’re asking about when to *check* for worms, fecal testing by a vet every 6-12 months is a good practice, even if you’re using natural methods, to monitor the effectiveness of your preventative program and catch any potential infestations early.

Can chicks be naturally dewormed?

Generally, internal parasites are less common in very young chicks, especially if they are raised in a clean, isolated environment away from adult birds and contaminated soil. Chicks are often more susceptible to external parasites like mites and lice, which can be managed with food-grade Diatomaceous Earth in their dust baths (if they’re old enough to dust bath) or other gentle external treatments.

For internal worms, focusing on preventative measures such as impeccable brooder hygiene and a high-quality starter feed is the best approach for chicks. Introducing potent natural dewormers to very young chicks can be risky due to their undeveloped digestive systems and potential for toxicity, especially with herbs. If you suspect worms in chicks, a vet consultation is crucial before attempting any remedies.

Is Diatomaceous Earth safe for chickens?

Yes, food-grade Diatomaceous Earth (DE) is generally considered safe for chickens when used correctly. The “food-grade” distinction is critical, as industrial-grade DE can be harmful. When ingested, it passes through the digestive system and is thought to work through physical abrasion, not chemical action. Many chicken keepers use it as a feed additive and in dust baths.

However, safety concerns arise primarily from inhalation. The fine dust particles can be an irritant to the respiratory systems of both humans and chickens. Always wear a dust mask when handling DE, especially when mixing it into feed or dust bath areas. Ensure adequate ventilation in the coop to prevent dust buildup. While safe, its efficacy as a standalone internal dewormer for chickens is still a subject of debate among experts.

What are the best natural dewormers for chickens?

There isn’t one “best” natural dewormer, as a comprehensive natural approach relies on a combination of strategies. The most effective “natural dewormers” are actually preventative management practices that reduce exposure to parasites and dietary supplements that boost your chickens’ natural immunity.

Key components often cited for their supportive roles include:

  • Excellent Hygiene & Rotational Grazing: These are arguably the most powerful natural “dewormers” as they directly disrupt the parasite life cycle.
  • Garlic: Believed to have antiparasitic and immune-boosting properties.
  • Pumpkin Seeds: Contain cucurbitacin, thought to paralyze worms.
  • Apple Cider Vinegar: Supports gut health and may create an unfavorable environment for parasites.
  • Fermented Feeds & Probiotics: Enhance gut microbiome and overall immunity.

These elements work synergistically to make your flock more resilient, rather than acting as a singular treatment to eradicate a heavy worm load.

How do I know if my chickens have worms?

Early signs of worms can be subtle, making vigilance key. Look for a combination of these symptoms:

  • Changes in Droppings: Diarrhea, foamy droppings, or visible worms/worm segments (like small white “spaghetti” or rice-like bits).
  • Physical Condition: Ruffled, dull feathers, pale comb and wattles, weight loss despite eating normally, general lethargy, or weakness.
  • Decreased Production: A drop in egg laying, or soft-shelled/misshapen eggs.
  • Appetite Changes: Some chickens might eat more but still lose weight due to nutrient malabsorption, while others might lose their appetite.

The most definitive way to know is through a fecal float test conducted by a veterinarian. This involves submitting a fresh droppings sample for microscopic examination to identify parasite eggs. This test will tell you exactly which worms are present and the severity of the infestation, guiding your treatment decisions, natural or otherwise.

Can chickens get worms from eating bugs?

Yes, absolutely. Many types of internal parasites have complex life cycles that involve intermediate hosts. Chickens, being natural foragers, readily consume insects, slugs, snails, and earthworms. If these intermediate hosts are infected with larval stages of certain parasites, the chicken can become infected when it eats them.

For example, cecal worms (which can transmit Blackhead disease) often use earthworms as an intermediate host. Some tapeworms can be transmitted via various insects. This is why limiting your chickens’ access to areas where these intermediate hosts might be prevalent or where wild birds (which can carry parasites) frequent can be an important part of a natural worm control strategy. It’s a natural part of their foraging behavior, but it’s also a primary route for parasite acquisition.

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