How to Repair a Fountain Pen Nib: A Comprehensive Guide

Picture this: You’ve just finished a particularly satisfying writing session, your thoughts flowing freely onto the page with your cherished fountain pen. Maybe it’s a vintage beauty passed down, or a modern workhorse you adore. You cap it, set it down, and then, the unthinkable happens – it tumbles from your desk, landing with that sickening little *tink*. Your heart sinks. Upon inspection, the once pristine nib, the very soul of your writing instrument, looks…off. Perhaps one tine is bent, or it just feels impossibly scratchy now, refusing to lay down a smooth line. This is precisely the moment many fountain pen enthusiasts face, much like my friend Sarah did recently with her beloved Lamy 2000. It felt like a minor tragedy, but I assured her, with a little patience and the right know-how, you absolutely can repair a fountain pen nib.

So, how to repair a fountain pen nib? In a nutshell, it involves a combination of careful diagnosis, gentle manipulation with specialized tools, and meticulous smoothing techniques. Most common issues like misaligned tines, scratchiness, or poor ink flow can often be corrected at home by following detailed, step-by-step instructions for each specific problem. It’s a delicate dance of observation and subtle adjustments, but an incredibly rewarding skill to master for any fountain pen owner.

From my own journey into the world of fountain pens, I’ve come to believe that understanding nib repair isn’t just about fixing a broken item; it’s about deepening your connection with your writing tools. It’s about taking control, preventing unnecessary replacements, and truly appreciating the intricate engineering that goes into these beautiful instruments. There’s a profound satisfaction that comes from restoring a favorite pen to its former glory, transforming a frustrating experience into a triumph of DIY repair.

Understanding Your Fountain Pen Nib: The Heart of the Pen

Before we dive into the nitty-gritty of fountain pen nib repair, let’s take a moment to appreciate the intricate design of a fountain pen nib. It’s a remarkable piece of engineering, designed to channel ink from the feed to the paper with precision. Knowing its anatomy is the first step toward effective repair.

• The Tines: These are the two flexible prongs that extend from the main body of the nib. They must be perfectly aligned and spaced for optimal ink flow.
• The Slit: The narrow cut that runs down the center of the nib, separating the two tines. This is where the ink travels from the feed to the tipping material.
• The Tipping Material: Found at the very end of the tines, this is typically a hard, wear-resistant alloy (often iridium, osmium, or ruthenium-based). This is the part that actually touches the paper and is crucial for smoothness and line width.
• The Breather Hole: A small hole near the base of the slit, which allows air to enter the ink reservoir as ink leaves, preventing a vacuum.
• The Feed: While not technically part of the nib itself, the feed (often made of ebonite or plastic) works in tandem with the nib to regulate ink flow. It’s important to differentiate between nib issues and feed issues, though they can influence each other.

Nibs are commonly made from stainless steel, which offers durability and affordability, or from gold, which provides more flexibility (often referred to as ‘springiness’) and a smoother writing experience for many due to its softer nature. Some boutique manufacturers also experiment with titanium or palladium. Regardless of the material, the delicate balance of these components can be easily disrupted, leading to common writing woes that require some careful attention.

When to Consider Repair Versus Replacement

It’s a fair question: when should you roll up your sleeves and try to fix a fountain pen nib yourself, and when is it time to consider a professional or a full replacement? My rule of thumb is this: minor alignment issues, scratchiness, and flow problems are almost always worth attempting a home repair. These are the bread and butter of common nib woes, and with patience, they’re quite fixable.

However, if your nib is severely bent, cracked, or has lost a piece of its tipping material, the calculus changes. A cracked nib, especially a gold one, is usually beyond DIY repair and often requires professional attention, if even possible. Replacing an entire nib unit might be more cost-effective than trying to repair extensive damage, particularly with less expensive pens. For very rare or sentimental pens, a professional nibmeister might be able to work wonders, but be prepared for a potentially significant investment. Knowing when to draw that line comes with experience, but generally, if you’re looking at major structural damage, it’s a good idea to seek expert advice.

Essential Tools for Fountain Pen Nib Repair

Before you embark on your fountain pen nib repair journey, gathering the right tools is paramount. Think of it like a surgeon preparing for an operation – precision is key, and you wouldn’t use a butter knife for delicate work, would you? These are the items I keep in my own nib-tuning kit:

• Magnification: This is arguably the most crucial tool. A jeweler’s loupe (10x or 20x magnification) is a minimum. For more intricate work, I sometimes use a USB microscope connected to my computer, which allows for extremely detailed examination of the tipping and slit. You simply cannot properly diagnose and correct issues without seeing them clearly.
• Brass Shims: These ultra-thin sheets of brass (often 0.001-0.002 inches thick) are indispensable for cleaning ink residue from the nib slit and for gently spreading overly tight tines. They’re soft enough not to damage the tipping material.
• Micromesh or Mylar Paper: Available in various super-fine grits (e.g., 4,000 to 12,000 grit for micromesh, or specific smoothing papers), these are used for polishing and smoothing scratchy nibs. Always start with a finer grit and work your way up if needed – you can always remove more material, but you can’t put it back.
• Non-Serrated Forceps/Tweezers: Useful for gently holding the nib or manipulating tines without causing further damage. Make sure they don’t have teeth that could scratch the delicate surface.
• Soft Cloth: A lint-free microfiber cloth is perfect for cleaning ink and protecting your work surface.
• Good Light Source: Direct, bright lighting helps you see every minute detail on the nib surface and under magnification.
• A Stable Work Surface: A clean, well-lit, steady surface is non-negotiable. You don’t want your pen rolling away or your hand slipping.
• Optional but Recommended:
  • Nib Block or Plastic Wedge: Sometimes used to support the nib during certain adjustments or to gently spread tines.
  • Dish Soap or Pen Flush: For thorough cleaning before and after repairs.

Preparation is Key: Safety First!

Before you even pick up a tool, a little preparation can save you a lot of headache. Think of it as setting the stage for success in your fountain pen nib repair.

1. Clean Your Pen Thoroughly: Always, always, *always* start with a clean pen. Flush out all ink from the nib and feed. Residue can obscure problems and even interfere with adjustments. Use clean water, or a dedicated pen flush for stubborn inks. Let it dry completely.
2. Set Up Your Work Surface: Find a quiet spot with good lighting. Lay down a soft cloth or paper towel to protect your pen and catch any small parts. Minimize distractions.
3. Patience and a Steady Hand: These aren’t just virtues; they’re requirements for nib repair. Rushing will lead to mistakes. Work slowly, make tiny adjustments, and check your progress frequently. A steady hand prevents slips that could cause further damage. If your hands aren’t feeling steady, take a break and come back to it.

Common Fountain Pen Nib Problems and Their Solutions

Alright, let’s get down to business. Here are some of the most frequent issues you’ll encounter and how to tackle them to repair a fountain pen nib.

Misaligned Tines: The Crooked Smile

Description: This is probably the most common nib issue, often resulting from a drop or excessive writing pressure. One tine appears higher or lower than the other when viewed under magnification. Even a minuscule misalignment can cause significant scratchiness and poor ink flow.

Causes: Typically, it’s physical trauma like dropping the pen, or applying uneven pressure during writing. Sometimes, it can be a factory defect, though less common with quality pens.

Repair Steps:

1. Magnify and Observe: Use your loupe to examine the nib tip from all angles – top, bottom, and side-on. Identify which tine is higher or lower. It can be subtle.
2. Isolate the Problem: Determine if the misalignment is only at the very tip or if one tine is bent along its length. Most often, it’s just the tip.
3. Gentle Pressure – The “Thumb-and-Forefinger” Method:
   • If the lower tine is *below* the higher one: Gently place your thumb on the top of the higher tine and your forefinger on the underside of the lower tine. Apply very slight, steady upward pressure with your forefinger while counter-pressing with your thumb.
   • If the higher tine is *above* the lower one: Reverse the process. Thumb on the top of the lower tine, forefinger on the underside of the higher tine, applying gentle downward pressure with your thumb.
   • The key here is *gentle* and *steady*. You’re not trying to bend steel with brute force, but rather guide it back into place.
4. Alternative Method (for stubborn cases): Sometimes, if the tines are really resistant, you can use the non-serrated tweezers. Hold the nib assembly firmly. Gently grasp the *side* of the lower tine with the tweezers, just behind the tipping, and very, very slightly twist upward. Again, small increments!
5. Check Frequently: After each tiny adjustment, put the pen down, look through your loupe, and re-evaluate. It often takes several small attempts to get it just right. The goal is for the two tines to meet perfectly, forming a smooth, continuous line at the tipping.
6. Test Write: Once they appear aligned under magnification, ink up your pen and test write on good paper. Pay attention to smoothness and ink flow. Does it still feel scratchy? Is the flow consistent? You might need to make further micro-adjustments.

My Personal Insight: Getting tines perfectly aligned often feels like a magic trick. The smallest adjustment can make the biggest difference. Don’t get frustrated if it takes a few tries. That ‘aha!’ moment when the pen suddenly writes perfectly again is incredibly satisfying.

Scratchy Writing: The Grating Sensation

Description: A nib that catches, drags, or feels rough on the paper, making writing an unpleasant chore. It’s like dragging a dull knife across a plate – nails on a chalkboard for pen lovers.

Causes:

• Misaligned Tines (again!): This is the number one culprit. A tiny misalignment means only one part of the tipping is making contact, or an edge is catching.
• Rough Tipping Material: The iridium point might have a microscopic burr or an uneven surface from manufacturing or wear.
• “Baby’s Bottom”: This is a specific shape of tipping where the very tip is excessively rounded, causing the ink to pool slightly before making contact with the paper, leading to hard starts and sometimes scratchiness as the ink flow is interrupted.
• Dry Ink Flow: Sometimes a lack of consistent lubrication from the ink can make the nib feel scratchy, even if it’s perfectly smooth.

Repair Steps (assuming tines are already aligned):

1. Confirm Alignment: Double-check your tine alignment under high magnification. If there’s *any* remaining misalignment, address that first, as it’s the primary cause of scratchiness.
2. Smoothing with Micromesh/Mylar: This is where we gently polish the tipping.
• Prepare Your Surface: Place a piece of fine-grit micromesh (e.g., 8000 or 10000 grit) on a flat, hard surface.
• Figure-Eight Motion: Holding your pen at your natural writing angle, gently draw small figure-eights on the micromesh. The key word here is *gently*. You are polishing, not grinding. Apply no more pressure than you would when writing. Do this for about 5-10 seconds.
• Straight Strokes: Follow up with a few straight strokes, pulling the pen towards you, again at your natural writing angle. This helps ensure all sides of the tipping are evenly smoothed.
• Test Write: Ink up your pen and test write on good paper. Does it feel smoother? Don’t overdo it! It’s very easy to remove too much material, which can make the nib too smooth (leading to “baby’s bottom” or loss of character) or even create new problems.
• Repeat (Cautiously): If still scratchy, repeat the process with the *same* grit. Only move to a slightly coarser grit (e.g., 6000 grit) if absolutely necessary, and then finish with a finer grit (12000 grit or Mylar paper) to bring back the polish. Always finish with the finest available grit to restore polish.
3. Addressing “Baby’s Bottom”: If you suspect “baby’s bottom” (often characterized by hard starts even with good ink flow), you’ll need to very carefully reduce the rounding of the tipping.
   • Use a very fine micromesh (12000 grit or finer).
   • Hold the pen at a higher-than-normal angle, almost perpendicular to the paper.
   • Draw a few *very gentle* straight lines towards you, with the nib angled slightly, focusing pressure only on the very tip of the tipping. The goal is to create a tiny flat spot on the *inside* edges of the tipping that will allow ink to flow freely to the paper.
   • This is an advanced technique and requires immense caution. Too much pressure or too many strokes can ruin the tipping. If you’re unsure, it’s safer to avoid this specific fix.
4. Final Polish: Finish with a few gentle strokes on Mylar paper, which will buff the tipping to a high shine, ensuring maximum smoothness.

Caution: Over-polishing. There’s a fine line between a smooth nib and an overly smooth nib. Too much smoothing can remove the character of a nib, or even create a “baby’s bottom” effect where ink flow becomes inconsistent due to insufficient contact with the paper. Less is often more when it comes to smoothing. Your goal isn’t necessarily glass-smooth, but rather a consistent and pleasant feedback.

Poor Ink Flow: Hard Starts, Skipping, Dryness

Description: Your pen struggles to put ink on paper. It might skip mid-sentence, refuse to start after a brief pause, or write a line that looks pale and dry. This is incredibly frustrating, especially when you’re in the zone.

Causes:

• Tines Too Tight: The most common nib-related cause. If the tines are pressed too closely together, the capillary action that draws ink down the slit is restricted.
• Ink Residue/Clogging: Dried ink, paper fibers, or even tiny dust particles can block the slit.
• “Baby’s Bottom” (again!): As mentioned, excessive rounding of the tipping can prevent ink from reliably touching the paper, leading to hard starts.
• Bent Nib: A severely bent nib can distort the slit and restrict flow.
• Feed Issues: (Important Distinction) Sometimes, it’s not the nib but the feed that’s the problem – a clogged feed, a misaligned feed, or even a damaged feed can cause flow issues. While we’re focusing on nib repair, always ensure your feed is clean and properly seated.

Repair Steps for Nib-Related Flow Issues:

1. Thorough Cleaning: First, ensure the pen is meticulously clean. Flush with water, then pen flush, until the water runs clear. Let it dry. Sometimes, this alone solves the issue.
2. Flossing the Tines with a Brass Shim: If cleaning doesn’t help, the tines might be too tight or have residue lodged deep within the slit.
   • Gentle Insertion: Take a thin brass shim and very gently insert it into the nib slit from the breather hole end, working it towards the tipping.
   • Sliding Through: Slide the shim back and forth a few times. Don’t force it. The shim should pass through smoothly but with a slight resistance. This action helps to clear any blockages and slightly opens up the tines.
   • Check for Spacing: After flossing, hold the nib up to a light source. You should be able to see a very thin, consistent line of light between the tines from the breather hole all the way to the tip. If it’s completely dark, the tines are still too tight.
3. Gently Spreading Tines (for very tight tines): This is a delicate operation and should be done with extreme caution. Too much force will spring the tines irreparably.
   • Using Thumbs: Gently place the sides of your thumbnails on the top of the tines, just behind the tipping. Apply very, very slight outward pressure. You’re trying to coax the tines apart a tiny bit.
   • Using a Plastic Wedge (more advanced): Some nibmeisters use a thin plastic wedge (like a guitar pick or a specialized tool) inserted into the slit and gently rocked to widen the gap. This takes significant practice and a light touch.
   • Check Frequently: Make a tiny adjustment, then check the light gap. Test write. You want to achieve a consistent flow without the pen becoming a firehose.
4. Addressing “Baby’s Bottom”: If you’ve confirmed your tines are spaced correctly and the pen still hard-starts, revisit the “baby’s bottom” smoothing technique described earlier, but again, with extreme caution. This helps the ink make better contact with the paper.

My Experience: Fixing a pen with poor flow feels like giving it a new lease on life. There’s nothing worse than a pen that skips, and when you finally get that rich, consistent line, it’s pure joy. It’s often a balance between having the tines open *just enough* for good flow, but not so much that the pen becomes a gusher or loses its line width consistency.

Bent or Twisted Nibs (Minor to Moderate)

Description: This is more than just misaligned tines; the entire geometry of the nib might be subtly deformed, often from a harder fall. The nib might appear to “lean” to one side or be slightly concave/convex in an unnatural way.

Causes: Typically, a significant drop onto a hard surface or excessive, prolonged writing pressure in an awkward angle.

Repair Steps:

1. Assess the Damage: Under strong magnification, examine the nib from all angles. Is it bent upwards, downwards, or twisted laterally? Understand the direction of the bend.
2. Gentle Manipulation – The ‘Reverse Bend’ Principle: You want to apply controlled pressure in the opposite direction of the bend.
   • Fingers First: For minor bends, your clean, dry fingers are often the best tools. Gently support the nib near the feed with one hand and with the thumb and forefinger of the other, apply very light pressure to coax the bent part back into shape. Work *very slowly* and in *tiny increments*.
   • Using Non-Serrated Tools: For slightly more stubborn bends, you can use the flat edge of a non-serrated tool (like the back of a pair of tweezers or a plastic wedge) to apply pressure. Always support the nib on the opposite side to prevent further bending. For a nib bent upwards, you might gently press down on the top of the bent section while supporting the underside.
   • Lateral Twists: If the nib is twisted (one side rotated more than the other), try to gently counter-twist it with your fingers, supporting the nib firmly where it meets the section. This is particularly tricky and requires immense care.
3. Check and Re-Check: After each micro-adjustment, stop, re-examine the nib from all angles under magnification. Is it straighter? Are the tines still aligned? You’ll likely need to correct tine alignment once the major bend is addressed.
4. Test Write: Ink up and test. Does it write, and is the flow consistent? You might have corrected the bend, but introduced other problems that now need fixing (like tine alignment or flow).

When to Stop: Recognizing Severe Damage. There’s a point of no return. If a nib is severely creased, cracked, or has a compound bend (bent in multiple directions), attempting a DIY fix can often make it worse. Gold nibs, while flexible, can also fatigue and crack if bent too many times or too severely. If you feel resistance that implies the material is about to give, or if you simply can’t get it close to straight after several attempts, it’s time to consider professional help or replacement. Don’t force it.

Gaps Between Tipping Material

Description: Sometimes, especially after a fall or heavy writing, the two halves of the iridium tipping might appear to have a small gap between them, or they don’t quite meet perfectly. This can lead to scratchiness and inconsistent line width, sometimes even splitting the ink stream.

Causes: Often, this is a result of excessive outward pressure on the tines, causing the tipping material to splay apart slightly.

Repair Steps:

1. Magnify and Confirm: Use your loupe to clearly see the gap. It’s usually very subtle.
2. Gentle Squeezing: This is where you gently try to bring the tipping halves back together.
   • Fingers: The safest method. With clean, dry fingers, gently pinch the tines together *behind* the tipping material. You’re trying to apply pressure to the part of the tines that influences the tipping, not directly on the delicate tipping itself.
   • Very Light Tool Pressure: For very stubborn gaps, some experienced folks might use non-serrated tweezers to gently apply squeezing pressure, again, *behind* the tipping, towards the breather hole. This is risky; too much pressure, or placing the tweezers directly on the tipping, can cause permanent damage.
3. Check Frequently: Make the tiniest of adjustments, then check under magnification. The goal is for the tipping halves to meet smoothly and consistently.
4. Test Write: Ink up and test the pen. Look for consistent line width and smoothness. You might need to make further minor adjustments to tine alignment after this step.

The Challenge: This particular repair is often tricky because the tipping material is incredibly hard and brittle. It’s not as malleable as the gold or steel of the tines. Be extremely patient and conservative with your pressure. If you can’t close the gap with gentle force, it’s usually best to live with it or seek professional help.

A Word of Caution: When to Seek Professional Help

While learning to repair a fountain pen nib is incredibly empowering, there are definitely situations where waving the white flag and consulting a professional nibmeister is the wisest course of action. I’ve learned this the hard way on a couple of occasions, turning a minor issue into a major one out of sheer stubbornness.

• Cracked Nibs: If your nib has a visible crack, especially in the slit or near the breather hole, it’s usually beyond home repair. Gold nibs can sometimes be welded by specialists, but it’s a complex and costly procedure. Steel nibs with cracks are generally considered irreparable and need replacement.
• Severely Bent or Twisted Nibs: While minor bends are fixable, if your nib looks like a pretzel, or has been bent multiple times, the metal fatigue can make it impossible to restore without risking a break. Professionals have specialized jigs and years of experience to gently coerce metal, but even they have limits.
• Lost Tipping Material: If a piece of the iridium tipping has broken off, your nib is effectively ruined for smooth writing. There are specialists who can re-tip nibs, but this is a highly skilled and expensive service.
• Complex Vintage Pens: Some vintage pens have unique nib designs or fragile materials. If you’re unsure, it’s always better to let someone with specific expertise handle it.
• Emotional or Monetary Value: If the pen holds immense sentimental value, or is a very expensive, rare model, the risk of irreparable damage from a DIY attempt might outweigh the benefit. In these cases, the peace of mind of professional service is often worth the cost.

Remember, a good nibmeister has seen it all and has tools and expertise far beyond what most enthusiasts possess. They can often work miracles. Don’t let pride get in the way of saving a beloved pen.

Maintenance Tips to Prevent Nib Damage

An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure, right? This certainly holds true for fountain pen nibs. By adopting a few good habits, you can significantly reduce the chances of needing to repair a fountain pen nib in the first place.

• Store Your Pens Properly: Always cap your pen when not in use. Store it horizontally or nib-up to prevent ink from drying in the feed. Avoid tossing it into a bag where it can rattle around or fall out. Pen cases or pen rolls are excellent investments.
• Clean Your Pens Regularly: Flush your pen thoroughly when changing inks, or if you haven’t used it in a while. Dried ink is the enemy of smooth flow and can cause blockages that mimic nib issues. A good deep clean every few months, even with daily use, is a great idea.
• Use Appropriate Writing Pressure: Fountain pens are designed to write with minimal pressure. If you find yourself pressing down hard, you’re not only fatiguing your hand but also risking splaying the tines or bending the nib. Let the ink flow, don’t force it.
• Choose Suitable Inks: Stick to fountain pen-specific inks. India inks, drawing inks, or any ink not designed for fountain pens can clog feeds, corrode nibs, and cause endless problems. Always check if an ink is fountain pen safe.
• Be Mindful of Drops: This seems obvious, but it’s the leading cause of bent nibs. Handle your pens with care, especially when uncapped.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs) About Fountain Pen Nib Repair

Can I repair a gold nib the same way as a steel nib?

Generally, yes, the fundamental principles of fountain pen nib repair apply to both gold and steel nibs. Both require careful attention to tine alignment, spacing, and smoothness. However, there are some subtle differences to keep in mind.

Gold nibs are typically softer and more flexible than steel nibs, meaning they can be easier to bend (which can be a pro or a con!). This flexibility also means they might be slightly more forgiving for minor adjustments, but conversely, they can be more prone to springing or getting bent out of shape with excessive pressure. Steel nibs are often stiffer and more resistant to initial bending, but once bent, they might be harder to return to their original form without specialized tools. When working with gold nibs, always err on the side of caution and use even gentler pressure due to their higher monetary value and softer nature.

How often should I clean my nib/pen?

The frequency of cleaning largely depends on your usage habits and the inks you employ. As a rule of thumb, it’s always a good idea to flush your pen thoroughly whenever you switch ink colors, especially if you’re moving from a darker, more saturated ink to a lighter one, or between different ink brands. This prevents unwanted color mixing and potential chemical reactions between different ink formulations that could lead to clogs.

If you use your pen daily, a good flush every 2-4 weeks is a reasonable schedule to prevent ink buildup. For pens that are inked up but used intermittently, a monthly flush is prudent. If you plan to store a pen for an extended period (more than a week or two), always clean and dry it completely before storage to prevent dried ink from gumming up the feed and nib. Ultimately, if your pen starts exhibiting flow issues or scratchiness, a thorough cleaning should always be your first troubleshooting step before attempting any physical nib adjustments.

What if I make it worse?

It’s a valid concern, and honestly, it happens! Even experienced enthusiasts and nibmeisters have had moments where an intended fountain pen nib repair goes awry. The key is to start with the least invasive methods, apply minimal force, and check your work frequently. If you notice the nib deforming in an unintended way, or if you feel significant resistance, stop immediately. It’s better to have a slightly imperfect nib than a completely ruined one.

If you do make it worse, don’t despair. For minor issues, sometimes stepping away and returning with fresh eyes can help. For more significant damage, this is precisely when you should consider seeking professional help from a skilled nibmeister. They often have the specialized tools and experience to correct mistakes or address damage that’s beyond a home repair. Think of your initial attempts as learning experiences. Every successful repair builds confidence, and every less-than-successful one teaches you the limits of your current skill set.

Is it safe to try repairing an expensive pen myself?

This is a question many people grapple with, and my advice is usually to proceed with extreme caution, and only after you’ve gained some experience on less valuable pens. While the techniques for repairing a fountain pen nib are the same regardless of the pen’s value, the consequences of a mistake are far greater with an expensive or cherished instrument.

If you have an expensive pen that develops a minor issue like a slightly misaligned tine or a touch of scratchiness, and you’ve successfully fixed similar issues on a more affordable pen, then a very gentle, step-by-step approach might be acceptable. However, for anything more complex, or if you lack confidence, it is almost always safer to entrust an expensive or sentimental pen to a professional nibmeister. The cost of professional repair, while not insignificant, is often a small fraction of the pen’s replacement value and offers peace of mind that the job will be done correctly by an expert.

What’s “baby’s bottom” and how do I identify it?

“Baby’s bottom” is a common term in the fountain pen community referring to a specific grinding profile of the nib’s tipping material. Instead of the tipping coming to a relatively sharp, consistent point that makes good contact with the paper, it’s overly rounded on the underside, resembling the smooth, convex curve of a baby’s posterior. This can happen from factory grinding or from aggressive smoothing by an owner who over-polishes the wrong area.

You can identify “baby’s bottom” by looking at the nib under high magnification (10x or 20x loupe) from the side or slightly from underneath. If the tipping looks excessively rounded, almost like a tiny ball, rather than having clear, well-defined contact points, you might have it. The primary symptom of “baby’s bottom” is hard starts, especially after a brief pause in writing. The pen might write perfectly once the ink starts flowing, but initiating that flow can be difficult because the overly rounded surface prevents consistent capillary action and good ink-to-paper contact. It essentially creates a small “gap” between the ink and the paper at the very beginning of a stroke. As mentioned in the smoothing section, correcting it involves *extremely* careful and light smoothing of the very inside edges of the tipping to create better contact, but this is a very advanced and risky procedure for DIYers.