What is a Finger Wave? The Timeless Hairstyle Girls Love

The Ultimate Guide to the Finger Wave: A Timeless Symbol of Glamour

You’ve surely seen it gracing the silver screen in period dramas, lighting up the red carpet on today’s biggest stars, and adding a touch of vintage flair to high-fashion editorials. But what is a finger wave, really? To put it simply, the finger wave is a classic hairstyling technique where wet hair is sculpted into a series of continuous, deep “S”-shaped waves. These waves are set close to the scalp, creating a sleek, polished, and incredibly striking look. Unlike loose, bouncy curls or casual beachy waves, the finger wave is an art form—a deliberate and sculptural style that has captivated generations of women.

This iconic hairstyle is far more than just a way to style hair; it’s a piece of living history. It tells a story of rebellion, glamour, and artistic expression. For many girls and women who choose to wear it today, the finger wave is a powerful nod to the past while remaining defiantly modern. It’s a style that requires patience and skill, and wearing it exudes confidence and sophistication. In this comprehensive guide, we’ll dive deep into the world of the finger wave, exploring its fascinating history, breaking down the exact steps to create it, and understanding why this particular hairstyle continues to hold such a special place in the world of beauty.

Decoding the “S” Shape: What Defines a True Finger Wave?

At its core, the definition of a finger wave lies in its unique technique and resulting shape. Let’s break down the specific characteristics that set it apart from other wavy hairstyles. The name itself, “finger wave,” is quite literal. The style is created by using one’s fingers and a comb to manipulate wet, product-saturated hair into a precise pattern.

The signature look is the deep, continuous “S” pattern. Imagine a sine wave from a math class—that’s essentially the shape you’re creating on the head. Each wave consists of a “ridge” (the raised part of the wave) and a “trough” or “valley” (the indented part). A true finger wave flows seamlessly from one ridge to the next without any break in the pattern. This is what gives it that incredibly sleek, almost liquid-like appearance. It’s not a curl; it’s a wave that lies flat against the head, contouring to its shape.

It’s crucial to distinguish finger waves from other similar-looking styles:

• Marcel Waves vs. Finger Waves: This is a common point of confusion. Marcel waves, also popular in the early 20th century, were created using a hot curling iron called a Marcel iron. While they also feature an “S” shape, they tend to have more volume and are created on dry hair. A finger wave is a wet-set style, which results in a much flatter, more defined, and shinier finish.
• Beach Waves vs. Finger Waves: This comparison is night and day. Beach waves are loose, tousled, and meant to look effortless and natural, as if you’ve spent a day by the ocean. Finger waves are the epitome of intentional, sculpted styling. They are precise, uniform, and anything but accidental.
• Hollywood Waves vs. Finger Waves: Hollywood waves are large, soft, uniform waves often swept to one side. They are created with curling irons or rollers and then brushed out to form a cohesive, glamorous wave pattern with lots of body and movement. A finger wave, on the other hand, is set and not meant to be brushed out, preserving its sharp, defined ridges.

A Journey Through Time: The Fascinating History of the Finger Wave

To truly appreciate the finger wave hairstyle, you have to understand its journey through fashion history. It wasn’t just a trend; it was a reflection of the cultural shifts happening around it.

The Roaring Twenties and the Flapper Revolution

The finger wave exploded into popularity in the 1920s, becoming the absolute signature hairstyle of the era. This was the age of the “flapper,” a new breed of woman who was casting off the rigid Victorian conventions of the past. Women were gaining the right to vote, entering the workforce, and embracing a new social freedom. This liberation was reflected in their fashion: hemlines rose, corsets were abandoned, and, most shockingly, women cut their hair short into daring bobs and shingles.

But what to do with this new short hair? The finger wave was the perfect answer. It provided a way to style short hair with immense sophistication and femininity. It was the ideal complement to the cloche hats, beaded dresses, and newfound confidence of the flapper. Icons of the silent film era like Clara Bow (the original “It Girl”) and Josephine Baker popularized the look, making it the must-have style for any modern woman.

Hollywood’s Golden Age in the 1930s

As the exuberance of the ’20s gave way to the more subdued Great Depression era of the 1930s, the finger wave evolved. Hair began to grow a bit longer, and the waves became softer and more romantic. Hollywood glamour was at its peak, and screen sirens like Bette Davis, Jean Harlow, and Myrna Loy kept the finger wave in the spotlight. The style was often incorporated into more elaborate updos or worn with longer, softer hair, proving its versatility.

The 1990s Urban Revival

After falling out of mainstream fashion for several decades, seen mostly as a “costume” look, the finger wave made a powerful and unexpected comeback in the 1990s. This revival, however, was not on the runways of Paris, but in the heart of Black and urban culture. R&B and hip-hop artists breathed new life into the style, reclaiming it and making it their own.

Singers like Missy Elliott, with her iconic, slicked-down finger waves on a jet-black pixie cut, made it a symbol of cool, futuristic confidence. Lil’ Kim and other female rappers also rocked the style, often with bold colors and intricate patterns. This wasn’t just a nod to the past; it was a reinterpretation—a statement of female power and artistry within the music scene. This ’90s revival is a critical chapter in the finger wave’s story, cementing its status as a timeless and culturally significant hairstyle.

The Finger Wave in the 21st Century

Today, the finger wave continues to be a go-to style for moments that call for high drama and elegance. It’s a red carpet staple, with stars like Zendaya, Rihanna, and Issa Rae demonstrating its modern versatility. Sometimes it’s a full-head commitment to vintage glamour, other times it’s used as a subtle, artistic accent on one side of a deep part, paired with a sleek ponytail or an updo. Fashion designers frequently use it on the runway to evoke a specific mood, proving that its power to captivate has not faded one bit.

The Art of the Wave: A Step-by-Step Guide to Creating Finger Waves

Creating an authentic finger wave is a true test of patience and technique. It’s not something you can rush! But with the right tools, products, and a bit of practice, you can certainly master this beautiful style at home. Here’s a detailed breakdown of how it’s done.

Step 1: Preparation is Everything

You absolutely cannot skimp on the prep work. This is what makes or breaks your finger waves.

• Start with Soaking Wet Hair: Your hair shouldn’t just be damp; it needs to be completely saturated with water. It’s often best to work straight out of the shower or keep a spray bottle handy to re-wet sections as you go. Water helps the hair strands glide together and hold the shape.
• Choose Your Weapon (Product): A strong hold product is non-negotiable. It provides the “slip” needed to form the waves and the “glue” to hold them in place as they dry.
  • Setting Lotion: This is the traditional, old-school choice. It’s a liquid that you apply liberally to the hair. It provides a firm hold and a high-shine finish once dry.
  • Strong-Hold Gel: A modern favorite, a good quality gel gives excellent hold and definition without flaking (if you choose the right one). It’s great for all hair types, especially for creating very sharp, defined waves.
  • Styling Mousse: Mousse can work, but you need to choose one with a very strong, crunchy hold. It can be a bit lighter than gel, but you’ll need to use a lot of it.
• Get Your Tools Ready: You’ll need a fine-tooth comb (a rat-tail comb is perfect) and, ideally, some wave clips or long, flat metal clips. These clips are a game-changer for holding the waves perfectly in place while they dry.

Step 2: The Sculpting Process

Work in small, manageable sections, starting at the front of your hair near your part.

1. Apply Product Generously: Take your first section of hair (about 2-3 inches wide) and comb it smooth. Apply a very generous amount of your chosen product from root to tip. The hair should feel slick and fully coated.
2. Create the First Ridge: Lay your index finger flat against your scalp on the section of hair. Now, take your fine-tooth comb and, with the teeth pointing slightly upward, place it against the scalp about an inch away from your finger.
3. Push and Comb: Gently but firmly, push the comb towards your index finger. This action will cause the hair to bunch up and form a raised “ridge.” Without lifting the comb, comb the hair under the ridge in the direction of the wave. Your index finger is acting as the anchor for the ridge.
4. Form the “S” Shape: Now, place your middle finger flat on the hair right next to your index finger. This holds the first ridge you just created in place. Move your index finger down and repeat the process in the opposite direction. Push the hair with the comb toward your middle finger to create the next ridge, which will be the bottom curve of the “S.”
5. Continue the Pattern: Continue this back-and-forth motion—using one finger to hold the previous wave while creating the next—down the length of the hair section. You are essentially pinching the hair between your fingers and using the comb to direct the flow.
6. Clip it in Place: As you form each groove or “trough” of the wave, you can slide a wave clip in to hold it securely. This is especially important for beginners as it prevents the waves from softening or falling out as you work on other sections. The clip should be placed right in the hollow of the wave, holding the ridge up.
7. Repeat for All Sections: Move to the next section of hair and repeat the entire process. The key here is to make sure the ridges and troughs of the new section line up perfectly with the one beside it to create a continuous, seamless look across your whole head.

Step 3: The Drying Game (The Hardest Part!)

How you dry your finger waves is absolutely critical. Any misstep here can ruin all your hard work.

Important: Do NOT use a regular handheld blow dryer! The forced air will blow your carefully sculpted waves apart and cause massive frizz.

• Method 1: The Hooded Dryer (Professional Method): This is the best and fastest way. Sitting under a hooded or bonnet dryer provides even, gentle heat that sets the style without disturbing it. This is how it’s done in salons.
• Method 2: Air-Drying (The Patient Method): If you don’t have a hooded dryer, you can air-dry. You will need to wear a hair net or a wave cap over your clipped hair to keep everything in place. This can take many hours, or even overnight, depending on your hair’s thickness and porosity. You must be patient and wait until your hair is 100% bone dry.

Step 4: The Finishing Touches

Once your hair is completely dry to the touch (check the roots!), you can gently remove the clips. Your waves should be hard and set. To finish, you can spritz on a high-shine finishing spray or gently smooth a tiny amount of hair oil over the surface to add gloss and tame any minor flyaways. Do not brush or comb your hair! This will destroy the defined waves you worked so hard to create.

Modern Twists: Variations of the Finger Wave Hairstyle

While the classic, full-head 1920s look is stunning, girls today have found numerous ways to incorporate finger waves into modern styles.

• The Accent Wave: This is arguably the most popular modern interpretation. Instead of waving the whole head, only a small section at the front hairline or along a deep side part is styled into finger waves. The rest of the hair might be pulled back into a sleek bun, a low ponytail, or even left down and straight. It’s a fantastic way to add a touch of vintage drama without a full commitment.
• Long Hair Finger Waves: Creating true, wet-set finger waves on very long hair is extremely difficult and time-consuming. More commonly, a “faux” finger wave look is created on long hair using heat tools. Stylists will use a flat iron or a 3-barrel waver to press an “S” shape into the hair, then use clips and strong hairspray to set it. It mimics the look but provides more softness and movement suitable for long lengths.
• Finger Waves on Natural & Textured Hair: Finger waves look absolutely incredible on short, textured hair. The technique is the same, but it’s essential to use a moisturizing, strong-hold gel to avoid dryness and ensure the coils are smoothed into the wave pattern. The result is a beautifully defined, sleek style that showcases the beauty of the hair.

Comparative Styles at a Glance

To help clarify the differences, here’s a table comparing the finger wave to other popular wave styles.

More Than a Hairstyle: The Enduring Appeal of the Finger Wave

So, why does a hairstyle that is nearly a century old continue to be so loved by girls and women today? The appeal of the finger wave is multi-layered.

• Unmistakable Elegance: It’s an inherently glamorous style. There is nothing accidental about it. Wearing finger waves shows a dedication to craftsmanship and an appreciation for polished beauty.
• A Connection to History: For many, it’s a way to channel the power and charm of a bygone era. It can make you feel like a silent film star or a 1930s screen goddess.
• A Form of Artistic Expression: The finger wave is hair as sculpture. It’s a bold statement that showcases the wearer’s confidence and unique sense of style. It’s not just a hairstyle; it’s a head-turning work of art.
• Surprising Versatility: As we’ve seen, it’s not just for vintage theme parties. The ability to use it as a small, modern accent makes it surprisingly wearable for formal events, weddings, or any occasion that calls for a touch of extra drama.

A Final Thought on a Timeless Classic

The finger wave is so much more than a simple answer to the question “what is a finger wave that girls do.” It is a testament to the cyclical nature of fashion and the enduring power of a truly iconic look. From the rebellious flappers of the 1920s to the trailblazing artists of the 1990s and the glamorous celebrities of today, the finger wave has been a constant symbol of sophistication and bold femininity. It’s a challenge, a craft, and a statement all rolled into one. So the next time you see those perfect, glossy “S” waves, you’ll know you’re not just looking at a hairstyle—you’re looking at a century of style history.